Gear: Equipment

[toc list: ol; title: Table of Contents; minlevel: 2; maxlevel: 4; attachments: 1;]

Following is a selection of equipment that characters might find useful whilst generally out in the wilds doing adventurous things. This list is is entirely indicative and not at all exhaustive.

Stats

Each piece of equipment has a few stats to describe them:

Size: The size of the item. 1 to 10 (usually), 1 being very small, 10 being just small enough to be carried by 1 person because of its size. These are guidelines to help characters and GMs decide if an item can fit inside something else.

Weight: The weight of the item in kilograms.

Cost: This is a guidline price. The average cost of the item in an average locale. Item costs may well be different depending on the location, available resources, the owner's attachment to the object, and even if the person selling it likes you or not. Armies or businesses bulk buying things would often pay less for each, due to economies of scale.

Rarity: The rarity of the item. 1 to 10, 10 being the rarest. This is a guage to how easy something is to find. This is an indicative exponential scale, with level 2 being 2-times rarer than level 1, level 3 being 2 times rarer than level 2 (and thus 4 times rarer than level 1) and so on. Again, local particulars might alter this - if you're in a tiny village in the middle of a forest for example, it's unlikely you'll be able to find even basic equipment and weapons.

Healing

Healing Kits

NameSizeWgt.CostRarity
Herbalist's Healing Kit20.5 kg3S2
Medic's Healing Kit30.5 kg12S4
Antivenom/Antidote [specific type] (1 dose)10.25 kg1S 50C5
Blessed Water (¼ litre)20.25 kg5S7

Herbalists are often the primary first aiders in very rural areas. A typical herbalist's kit will contain the following: dried moss to stop bleeding, a fleshneedle and thread to close wounds, mild sedative herbs to numb pain, splints and soft leather bandages, bone tweezers and flint or metal knife. A herbalist's kit offers a +2 bonus to First Aid (Others) tests. In more urban areas, there are people trained in the latest medical theory and surgical techniques.

A typical medic’s kit would contains the following items: cloth to stop bleeding, a fleshneedle and thread to close wounds, elixirs to numb pain, mostly sterile cloth bandages, splints and plaster, scalpel, probes, clamps and pliers, and a saw for amputations. A medic's kit offers a +4 bonus to First Aid (Others) tests. These bonuses aren't cumulative.

If you have both kits on you and you take a First Aid (Others) test, you only get the +4 bonus. The contents of either kit can be used outside of their medical use if needed, although it will impinge the kit's usability until it's restocked. The GM should make any decisions in that regard.

Antivenoms and antidotes, gives a further +4 (in adition to any healing kits) against a specific type of venom or poison. The cost and rarity listed above is for a relatively common venom or poison. The GM should decide if something is more expensive or rare. Not all poisons have antidotes, but almost all venoms have an antivenom - whether or not its available is another matter entirely.

Blessed water is water that has been tended to magically by a priest from a particular faith. Used mostly for religious ceremony. Priests of different faiths can of course bless their own water; the cost listed here is for water that is sold as blessed.

General

Carrying

NameSizeWgt.CostRarity
Backpack50.5 kg1S2
Pouches20.2 kg30C1
Quivver50.2 kg3S3
Holster and Scabbard40.2 kg10S 50S6

The weights above are assumed to be empty.

A backpack is the standard personal carrying device. 2 straps to go over the shoulders attached to a big sack. Backpacks very immensely in size, quality, and the ammount they can carry. The 'average' backpack above is assumed to be able to carry about 30kg of stuff (assuming the character is strong enough) of size 5 or less inside the bag, or size 7 or less outside.

Pouches are smaller bags, to be attached to belts or clothes, or carried in pockets. The 'average' pouch described above is big enough to contain about 3kg of stuff of size 4 or less.

Larger or smaller packs are available, and the GM should adjudicate cost. The GM should also be mindful of how much stuff the characters are trying to cram in their bags.

Holsters or Scabbards carry your weapons within easy reach. Readying a weapon from a holster or scabbard is only 1 action.

Quivvers can hold about 25 arrows or bolts for your bow/crossbow at an easy reach. There is no penalty to pull an arrow or bolt from a quivver.

Fluid Transport

NameSizeWgt.CostRarity
Barrel (cost per 4 litres, weight empty)*2 kg3S*
Basket41 kg50C1
Bottle (¼ litre) (cost and weight full of water)10.5 kg25C2
Bottle (1 litre) (weight full)31.25 kg1S2
Barrow1010 kg3S3
Cart2555 kg35S4
Canteen (⅛ litre) (weight full)20.2 kg10S3

Barrels are the standard means of mass transport of fluids and some foodstuffs. The size of a barrel increases with each 4-litres that it can hold. A 4 litre barrel is size 5, and increases by every 2 for every extra 4 litres or part that the barrel can store. The rarity of any barrel below 40 litres is 5, 40 litre barrels are rarity 3, and for each extra 10 litres that a barrel is in size adds 2 to the rarity.

Baskets are handy carrying tools often used by those in agriculture. Like rucksacks, baskets vary immensely in size and quality. The 'average' basket above can carry about 5kg of stuff, and is held by one hand .

Bottles are the primary means of small scale distribution of liquids that aren't immediately about to be consumed. Bottles are almost always ceramic, but can be made from leather at times if resilience is needed (often called skins in this case). The price is the same regardless of if it is glass or leather. Larger bottles are availble if you can find them, and the GM should assign a cost if needed.

A barrow (or hand cart) is essentially a big wheeled basket, and used for the same purposes. A cart is basically a big barrow, and is pulled by working animals. The 'average' barrows and carts above can hold about 50kg (about the weight of a small human woman) and 200kg (about 4 human men) respectively. Of course, you'll need a person or an animal strong enough to pull these weights. Going up and down a steep slope is harder than travelling along a relatively flat path.

A canteen is a small metal-lined or solely metal bottle, often used for carrying small amounts of spirits. Cateens can be thermos-lined, and thus better retain any warm fluids, for an extra 15S.

Comfort

NameSizeWgt.CostRarity
Bedroll51 kg3S3
Blanket30.5 kg50C1
Tent44 kg20S4
Soap10.2 kg1S2
Oil Cooker53 kg14S5

A bedroll is essentially a cozy, lightweight matress to sleep upon. If sleeping on one, a bedroll will reduce the likelyhood that you will randomly wake up in them middle of the night, and will make you feel more refreshed the next day. It also helps protect against the cold and hypothermia by insulating you from the ground. If using a bedroll to sleep, a full 8 hours rest grants an extra level of fatigue recovery, or 6 hours rest will grant normal fatigue recovery. It will also reduce the likelihood that you'll catch a chill (illness) when sleeping outside, in tents and so forth, by -2.

A blanket is conversely something to sleep under. Similarly, sleeping under one will be more comfortable and warmer in the same way as a bedroll. If using a blanket to sleep, a full 8 hours rest grants an extra level of fatigue recovery, or 6 hours rest will grant normal fatigue recovery. It will also reduce the likelihood that you'll catch a chill (illness) when sleeping outside by -2. Trenchcoats can be used as makeshift blankets in a pinch, at least to stay dry, but aren't as insulating against the cold.

A tent will not only keep any sleeping characters warmer than just the outside, crucially it will keep them very dry and out of the wind. Characters in a tent will have their chances of catching a chill reduced by -4 (cumulative with bedrolls and blankets above). It also gives them a place to dry themselves and their clothing out should they need it. An 'average' tent as shown above is made from leather, furs and/or treated canvas, has a floor mat, a few poles and guy lines, and can store 2 people and some equipment. Usually anything size 5 or less can fit inside with the occupants without too much worry at all, and items that are of a high size because they are very tall or long, whilst conversely being thin, can also be stowed (mostly) inside a tent. Polearms are a good example.

Soap obviously is to ensure everyone is smelling their freshest, and for keeping themselves clean. Washing with soap at least once a day will give the character a +2 bonus to all leadership and camaraderie based tests (+2 if using one or both - like a lie test for example). Washing with soap will also reduce the chance that a character will pick up any diseases or parasites by -6 that day.

An oil cooker is a specifically designed travel cooker, using oil of some sort for fuel. Oil cookers vary in size - the one above has a ¼-litre reservoir and will last for around 30 minutes of cooking time.

Fuel, Fire and Cooking

NameSizeWgt.CostRarity
Coal / Charcoal61 kg1S2
Firewood61 kg10C1
Fuel Oil (¼ litre)10.3 kg7S 50C5
Flint and steel10.1 kg2S2
Matches10.1 kg (10)5C (10)3

Firewood of course can be gathered by the party if they like - the price above is for the few minutes of someone else's time to chop some treated wood for you. Firewood that's been bought from a supplies store will likely be treated somehow, and thus more resistant to the damp. 1 kg of firewood will last for 2d5 hours.

Coal / Charcoal is a hotter-burning, more compact fuel than basic firewood. The cost of coal above is for a 1kg bag of the stuff. You can usually purchase more or less if you need to. Coal and Charcoal have much higher ignition temperatures than wood, so will need more kindling than a bonfire, or have an intermediary layer of wood amongst it to help it ignite. 1kg of coal or charcoal will last for 3d10 hours.

A flint and steel will help light a fire if you're without a box of matches. It takes 1d10 minutes to get a fire going using a flint and steel and some appropriate kindling.

Fuel oil is a natural (often fat based) or synthetic (oil well) based liquid oil designed to burn in lamps and travel cookers. By weight, fuel oil is the most expensive fuel going, but it is readily portable. Hit it with a spark, it's pretty much guarenteed to ignite. Fuel oil generally isn't volatile enough to explode on ignition, but if a bottle of the stuff is broken by something very hot (like a white gun shot, or a fire spell, for example), it will catch fire.

If you're really feeling daft, you can use fuel oil as kindling - just try not to singe your face if you use too much. The GM is encouraged to roll in secret a D10 in this case, and on a 8+, the player has used too much of the stuff and it will ignite violently. Cue comedy or serious moment as necessary. It takes about a ¼-litre of fuel oil to soak 1kg of solid fuel. Fuel oil can be used to ignite coal too.

Matches are another means of starting a fire. They don't work when wet, but don't take near as long as a flint and steel and will need much less tinder.

Illumination

NameSizeWgt.CostRarity
Torch40.5 kg10C1
Oil Lamp / Lantern21 kg2S2
Candle10.1 kg5C1
Arcane Lamp / Lantern21 kg1G 50S7

A torch is a short pole with an oil soaked substance at its tip. They are pretty basic things and will last for d6 hours. If you really feel the need, you can use the thing as a club - and although it might singe someone somewhat, unless they are covered in a flammable substance it is very unlikely that they will catch fire. If they are covered in a flammable substance, then roll for catching fire as normal. A torch will give you generally about 15 to 20 yards of reasonable illumination, and might well highlight shadows and such out to about 5 times this range.

Oil lamps are made of metal, an oil soaked wick, and often have some sort of glass windows to keep stray hands and moths away from the naked flame. Because of their superior construction and fuel control, they will last for at least 3 hours or so - depending on the quality of the thing. The GM should inform the owner of the rough time that an oil lamp will function for before needing a refill, and this generally should be related to the price.

Oil lamps without any focusing lenses give about 15 to 20 yards of reasonable illumination, and can highlight shadows out to about 5 times that distance. Oil lamps with a lense of some sort though work like a lighthouse, but on a smaller scale. They offer a cone of light in whatever direction they are pointing - how far depends on the strength of the light source. Usually, they'll illuminate out to about 40 yards, and highlight shadows up to about 3 times this.

Candles are the traditional means by which to illuminate an area. They can last any amount of time from a few minutes to a few hours, and be scented too. The sorts of use to most outside novelty tend to last for about an hour each, and have no added scent to them. A candle can illuminate an area of about 2 to 5 yards clearly, and cast shadows out to about 5 times this.

Arcane lamps are similar to oil lamps, except the illumination is provided by a magically illuminated gemstone (Alexandrite is a popular one). Like oil lamps, they also generate a lot of heat, and as such the gem could be used in a pinch to start a fire from some kindling. Conversely, handled without protection, they will burn. Arcane lamps will last generally for a few years, and the light cannot be controlled by a means of adjustment - although many arcane lamps have shutters for blocking off the light if its not needed.

Horseriding

NameSizeWgt.CostRarity
Bit and Bridle20.1 kg4S 50C5
Horseshoes20.2 kg6S 50C5
Saddle75 kg15S5
Saddlebags50.5 kg10S 50C5
Spurs2-5S5
Stirrups32 kg3S5

All of the bonuses listed here can only be used to offset penalties (or makeup for lack of practice). They cannot give you a bonus to riding higher than any level of riding skill you have.

A bit and bridle gives a +1 bonus to control your mount, as well as something to hold onto. You need at least one hand on this at all times if you want to steer your mount.

Horseshoes give your mount +5 to their Physical Exertion Long test for long rides. Horseshoes will need replacing after every 1000 kilometres or so of use, or if they become damaged somehow (such as combat). Blacksmiths and Husbanders will often charge for the service of fitting horseshoes.

A saddle is the basic requirement to use ones full riding skill(s). If there is no saddle on your mount, then all of your riding related test target numbers are doubled.

Saddlebags are backpacks for horses. They can carry about 30kg of stuff no larger than size 5 on the inside, or size 6 on the outside.

Spurs gives a +1 bonus to control your mount.

Stirrups make it easier to actually climb onto ones horse, and give a +1 bonus to control your mount. You will need stirrups if you plan on doing any jousting, or participating in a cavalry charge.

Tools

General

NameSizeWgt.CostRarity
Crowbar54 kg25S5
Chain (Iron, 10 yards)415 kg35S3
Chalk10.1 kg (12)35C3
Climbing Axe43 kg10S5
Compass10.2 kg25S4
Grappling hook34 kg15S6
Lockpicks20.2 kg7S7
Map (Reasonable)30.2 kg5S4
Pickaxe66 kg17S 50C6
Rope (20 yards)32 kg

2S 50C

3
Saw5 to 101.5 kg4S2
Spade5 to 74 kg3S3

Crowbars are used to force doors and whatnot. They can be used as improvised big clubs should the need arise to go Gordon Freeman on something.

The 'average' iron chain above is capable of lifting about 500kg, and surviving a 350kg jolt. Chain could be used to secure a person if there is enough of it to tie them up - about 30 yards or so. Trying to break an iron chain would require a strength test against an 8 or less (not likely). Beasts of various sizes will need more (or less) chain as appropriate (GM should adjudicate).

Chalk can be used for marking things and locations. If it rains too hard, obviously it will get washed away. Also used a lot in classrooms.

Climbing Axes are specially designed to aid in climbing. They give a +4 bonus to any climbing test on rock, ice or wood - but not buildings made of hard materials like stone or brick. Reinfored walls such as those of a castle might be thick enough to support a climbing axe - the GM should adjudicate. They also can be used as improved weapons.

Compasses can easily allow orientation. Very handy when told to go a particular direction. Even better when coupled with a good map. If your character knows how to use a compass, you might even not get lost. All compasses are magnetic - and as such are effected by magnetic metals (Iron, Cobalt and Nickel). Beyond certainty of direction, GMs are encouraged to give navigation bonuses to characters using them.

A grappling hook, coupled with a strong piece of rope, gives a great boon to climbing. Obviously the grappling hook will need to be thrown or launched, and the rope will need to be long enough for you to hold on at the other end. Treat throwing a grappling hook as a throwing attack, with the standard ranges and modifiers. Once a grappling hook is secure (a successful throwing 'attack' so to say), it gives a +10 to climbing sheer vertical surfaces, and +5 for any other climbing job.

Lockpicks are for picking locks. Whether or not you are a legitimate locksmith or a thief is another matter. Lockpicks will be needed for any forays into the world of the Lockpicking skill.

The map listed above is of a reasonable quality, marking things like roads, forests, hills, danger areas, towns and so on. A map will, by itself and assuming a reasonable competence with it, give at least a +4 bonus to a navigation test. Maps of lesser quality can either have less information on them, or have that information out of date. It might be a good idea on the latter for the GM to keep the party in the dark about the quality of their map. More specific maps are often used for specialised purposes - for example a map of landowners would likely be of a relatively small area and have detail such as individual dwellings and property boundaries.

Pickaxes are good for digging stuff. Generally, if someone is armed with a pickaxe, they'll be able to reliably dig away at rock with relative ease - certainly easier than using your bare hands. Pickaxes can be used as a weapon - count as an improvised big club.

The rope above is of decent enough quality to haul about 250kg without breaking, and last a few years before needing to be replaced. Cheaper rope will obviously be of either lesser quality, or lesser strength.

Saws are used for reliably cutting wood. A tool of choice of lumberjacks and carpenters. A lumberjack's saw is size 8 to 10, whereas a carpenter's saw is about size 4 or 5.

Spades are to dirt what pickaxes are to rock. Digging a hole with a spade will be least 3 times shorter in time than without. Spades also make pretty brutal mob weapons - count as an improvised small club.

Fishing

NameSizeWgt.CostRarity
Fishing hook10.1 kg5S3
Fishing line (10 yards)10.1 kg (50 yds)25C3
Fishing net65 kg15S5

Fishing hooks help with fishing. Assuming that you have some line and bait, a fishing hook will give you a +4 bonus to fishing attempts.

A fishing net can be used also to fish (and to capture stuff on land too). An 'average' net is about 3sq. yards and includes a casting line of about 10 yards. Using a net gives a +4 fishing bonus.

Hunting

NameSizeWgt.CostRarity
Hunting Musk (10 doses)10.5 kg5S4
Pungi sticks30.2 kg25C5
Camoflague Cloak40.2 kg15S4
Camloflague Net72 kg25S4
Caltrops4 (5)2 kg40S (5)6
Cooking Kit31 kg10S3

Hunting Musk is used to disguise the smell of a person with more natural odours. Creatures that rely on smell to detect their prey take a -4 penalty on tests made to detect characters wearing hunting musk. It lasts for 1d6 hours, unless washed off. Generally hunting musk is reasonably resilient to water, and falling into a river or getting rained on shouldn't effect its ability to mask ones scent.

Pungi Sticks consist of a sharpened stick made from bamboo or similar woods. often hidden in a pit or trench. Anyone stepping into an area of pungi sticks must succeed on an agility test or take 3d10 damage to the legs. Anyone with a knife (or a sword etc. if you fancy trying to cut something with a weapon) of course can make their own pungi sticks. The ones above are 'professionally made' hunting tools that one can buy from shops, treated and veneered, sometimes even poisoned or with the provision to do so, and will last a lot longer in the wild.

Camoflague is of course the art of blending into ones surroundings. Note down the native environment of the camoflague, and the GM should decide whether or not said camoflague is appropriate. Anything hidden under appropriate camoflague gains is at -5 to be spotted at a distance of over 2 yards, and -10 at a distance over 50 yards. Obviously, camoflague that is designed to work in a forest will be pretty useless on a desert.

A camo cloak is simply a 1-person version of a camo net. The camoflague net shown above is about big enough to hide a the 2-person tent shown on this page. Bigger camo nets can be procured, increasing proportionally in size and weight, and exponentially in cost: something with twice the height and width is 4x the total area. E.g.: a camo net of size 14 would weigh 4kg and cost 1G.

Caltrops are a basic form of trap. Generally they're multi-pronged spikes (or 4 sided dice) that are simply scattered on the floor waiting for some sap to step on them. Anyone stepping into an area of caltrops must succeed on an agility test or take 2d10 damage to the legs - specifically the feet. Unless they are wearing armoured-soled boots, caltrops will ignore leg armour. Obviously if someone is pushed over / falls into the same area, a different part of the body will be effected - reduce demage from armour as normal in this case. Caltrops are usually made from iron or cheap steel.

The cooking kit listed above is of a type specifically designed for travel. It includes a 2 pots with detatchable or folding handles, and a fork, serated knife and spoon. Snazzier ones, such as those issued to military officers, can come with their own oil cooker. Cheaper ones will generally be household items bundled together for travel, and as such, are size 5 instead of 3.

Communication

Accoustic

NameSizeWgt.CostRarity
Bell32 kg5S5
Boatswain's Call10.2 kg7S 50C4
Bugle42 kg20S4
Drum64 kg12S5
Pipes73 kg17S 50C6
Whistle10.2 kg55C3

Bells, as used by town criers for example, are audible for about 3 kilometres or so under ideal conditions - they'll be much less audible through a dense forest or a noisy town. Often used by civil authorities. Bells can only play 1 note.

Boatswain's Calls are pipless whistles, used almost solely on ships. They are known for their incredibly cutting high-pitched tone that can pierce even the feircest of noise, although their range isn't great. A blast to the ear with one of these by someone well practiced in their use can cause temporary deafness. They can be heard over any noise up to a distance of around 50 yards or so, and under quiet coniditions will be audible for about 200 yards. It takes around 20 days of practice to be any good with one. Boatswains calls can reliably play 3 notes - low, medium, and high - although they are all quite high pitched sounds.

Drums are audible for about 3 kilometres or so under ideal conditions - they'll be much less audible through a dense forest or a noisy town. Although they're rarely used in a military capacity any longer for issuing communication, they are a method of choice for some groups that need coded communications over medium distances. They are popular musical instruments too.

Bugles are small handheld horns, currently the favoured means of issuing medium ranged orders on a noisy battlefield. Under ideal conditions, they can be heard up to 5 kilometres away, and under battlefield conditions can be heard at a distance of 500 yards or so. Bugles can play about an octave of notes, and as such are used for some military and civilian music too. It takes 30 days of practice to be any good with a bugle.

Pipes are large-ish, very loud, bladder-and-breath driven instruments. They're most commonly associated with elves, dwarves and western humans. Under ideal conditions, they can be heard for about 10 kilometres or so, and under battlefield conditions, they can be heard for about 1 kilometre. It takes around 50 days of practice to be any good with these.

Whistles, as distinct from boatswains calls, are generally the civilian-issued pipped variety. They have the same purpose in civil life, and are used for officiating some sports games. Whistles can only play 1 note. Under ideal conditions, they can be heard for about a kilometre, and can be heard over stadium crowds for about 200 yards.

Written

NameSizeWgt.CostRarity
Paper (20)10.1 kg1S1
Lead Pencil10.1 kg (10)2S2
Graphite Pencil10.1 kg (10)5S4
Ink Pen10.1 kg (10)3S3
Ink (¼ litre) (Usually black)10.25 kg50S3

Paper can also be used for kindling should the need arise.

Lead and graphite pencils are used for writing, obviously. They can also be used to draw stuff if the character is so inclined. If you really, really want to, you could attempt to stab someone with them, but the chances are they'll break. Graphite isn't poisonous, whereas lead will eventually cause illness if injested too often.

Ink pens are pretty much the same deal, except they need ink to be useful.

Visual

NameSizeWgt.CostRarity
Flag50.4 kg2S 50C2
Telescope20.2 kg1G 35S5

Flags are the primary means of visual communication, especially at sea. The profile above is for a man-portable national flag, or a white (blank) flag. For any other flag designs, most of which are needed for reliable communication, treble the rarity.

Telescopes are the other necessity of naval inter-ship communication, although they are used plenty on land too. A telescope will generally magnify anything from 3 to 6 times in size - and thus give the user an effective visual range of about 3 to 6 times longer. Against things that are hard to spot at a distance, the range of telescope has the act of 'moving the user X yards closer' for the purposes of any perception / search / etc. tests. E.g., if a user was 150 yards away with a 3x telescope, divide the 150 by 3 (the power of telescope), to give the new effective range.